Shades of Amber

Some call it ‘a condiment’. I like to use it in cooking (Ingredient Special on Mustard plus Recipe ‘Nustard’, Rcp# 32).

The original seeds of this famous condiment were planted long ago and far to the east in Asia. Back then, the idea of pressing minced meat – or anything else – into a semi-transparent tube, sealing it at both ends and roasting it would have been nothing more than a vision, similar to a strangely shaped cloud in the sky. Which, of course, we cannot imagine now. But the mustard seeds were already part of fine dining. Used for appetizers.

Then the ancient Romans noticed the little yellow balls on one of their cruises and brought them home as souvenirs. In that environment, it was only natural that someone would try to drop them into wine. I mean, the ancient Romans are very well known for their love of wine and were very creative about how to incorporate it into every part and sequence of their major celebrations. At least the rich and powerful of the time did. At the same time, the common folk invented some really delicious food based on far less expensive ingredients. As usual.

So most people in Europe – and around the world – were not introduced to mustard until a few industrious manufacturers in France and England began producing versions that more people could afford. And it was a success. All over the world, there are famous recipes that call for mustard. Dishes that would not be possible without mustard. Celebrations of unparalleled local or even regional significance. Imagine the Oktoberfest without the sweet and sour mustard that accompanies the typical white sausages (now also available in meatless versions).

We always have a carefully stored reserve of mustard in the household. Mustard is the perfect combination of sweet, sour, spicy and bitter. It rounds out the flavor of any protein source exceptionally well. You just have to be careful though when using it with other flavors. It tends to be quite dominant. So sometimes I just use a little bit to model a certain flavor, but not let the mustard flavor itself come through.

Another way to get a more subtle ‘mustard effect’ is to use olive water. This creates a slightly salty, fruity-sour flavor. This is why I use it so often (see [‘Washerman’s Warft Salad‘], [‘Multi-Meal Prep II – The Sequel‘], [The Sauce Brothers‘] and [‘Rainy Delight‘]. So you can use that to replace small amounts of mustard if you cannot eat it and maybe add some ginger powder or vice versa. Try replacing the olive water in my recipes with a very small amount of mustard, but again: Be careful. You have to start with a knife tip or less, because the taste of mustard is very prominent. Some might even say conceited or vain.

But with that magnificent ancestry behind it, who wouldn’t?

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Side Notes:

1. While researching this, I came across some very fascinating information about medieval cooking and food culture. I will continue to research and share what I learn about mindful eating and good food.
2. Quite a while ago, when I was in Vienna, I realized that mustard must be a problem for some people with food allergies. In Austria, you have to list all ingredients that are known to cause common allergic reactions, even on menus outside of restaurants. Fortunately, no one in my family has this problem, but I thought maybe I should try to make a substitute without mustard seeds for those who do. Kind of to make it fair, since I make all of my recipes so that we can eat them with our special dietary needs in the family. Below is the result of this rather fascinating experiment. I can tell you: I never thought it would be so difficult to remodel a specific flavor from scratch. Wow!
3. I was told that there is a spirit in wine that always tells the truth (‘In Vino Veritas’ – sound familiar?). The Romans found this out when they were testing different versions of their first mustard recipes. It must have been an extraordinary experience to have food talk back to you when it did not come out right the first times.
   Anyway: Dear Ghost in the Mustard. Please forgive me for trying to offer a substitute for you. It is only because we all love you so much that we cannot do without your greatness, even though sometimes we should. That’s why I called the (poor) substitute ‘Nustard’. It is meant as an honor.
   Okay, with that out in the open, I will keep you posted on the response. Or maybe you can keep me posted if you hear anything.

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Nustard

Recipe to accompany the Ingredient Special on Mustard (Rcp# 32)

Ingredients for‘Nustard’

For about 100 ml of ‘Nustard’ you will need

• 5 tablespoons mango puree
• 1 tablespoon ground pumpkin seeds
• 2 +1 + ½ + (½) teaspoons mild grape vinegar (dark Aceto Balsamico)
• 1 teaspoon apricot or pear syrup
• ½ teaspoon mango powder (see Ajurvedic cooking supplies)
• ¼ teaspoon dried ginger powder
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• 50 – 60 anise seeds (makes about 1/16 teaspoon)
• 5 mild black peppercorns (such as Tellicherry)
• 2 red peppercorns
• freshly ground nutmeg
• 1 tablespoon water

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Preparations for ‘Nustard’

Put everything in a blender and blend, starting with just 2 teaspoons of vinegar. Pour the ‘Nustard’ into a jar, close it, and store in the refrigerator. After a day, stir and add another teaspoon of vinegar. The next day, stir the ‘Nustard’ again and add another ½ teaspoon of vinegar. On the third day, taste again and decide if you need another ½ teaspoon of vinegar. This flavor needs time to settle – just like real mustard.

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